There are a few things you can count on this time of year. Mud season is coming whether we like it or not. Someone’s already put the snow tires on the “maybe next weekend” list. And across towns like Groton,  Bath, Corinth and Peacham,  there are folks watching the weather with the same level of trust they give a used snowblower.

Because it’s sugaring season.

Now, if you’ve ever made maple syrup—or even just helped out for a day—you know this isn’t a hobby for the impatient. It’s part science, part tradition, and a whole lot of hoping the weather cooperates.

I recently had the chance to talk with Mark Isselhardt from the Proctor Maple Research Center, and if there’s one takeaway from this year so far, it’s this: no two sugaring seasons are ever the same.

If you’ve been out in the sugar woods this year, you’ve probably already felt it. This season got off to a slower start than what we’ve seen the past few years. Colder temperatures early on meant things didn’t get moving right away.

Then came the snow—which looked promising—but it didn’t stick around long. A stretch of warm weather, some rain, and a little wind took care of that pretty quickly.

And here’s the thing a lot of folks don’t realize: too much warmth can be just as much of a problem as too much cold.

Sugaring depends on that classic New England rhythm—freezing nights and warmer days. That’s what gets the trees to move sap. Without that back-and-forth, things slow down.

As Mark explained, sap flow doesn’t just happen steadily over time. It comes in bursts. You might have a few days where everything lines up perfectly and you make a big chunk of your syrup all at once. Then you might go several days with almost nothing.

It keeps you humble.

For those who don’t sugar, here’s the quick version of how it works. When temperatures drop below freezing, the tree essentially pulls moisture up from the ground. When it warms up, that pressure reverses, and the sap flows out—right into buckets or tubing systems if you’ve tapped the tree. It’s like the tree is breathing in and out.

No freeze? No recharge.
Too warm for too long? The season can start slipping away.

And that’s where things get tricky this year.

We’ve already had a stretch of warmer-than-average temperatures. For some producers, especially those in warmer areas or with trees facing the sun, that can impact how productive their taps are. The tap holes can start to seal up earlier than expected, meaning less sap when conditions improve.

So far, reports across the region—and the state—are all over the map. Some producers are just getting started, while others are already a good way into their season. That’s sugaring. It’s never one-size-fits-all.

It’s not all uncertainty. One thing Mark pointed out is that the quality of syrup this year has been strong. Producers are reporting good flavor and color, and sap sweetness seems to be right where it should be.

That’s a big deal. There was some concern going into the season that last summer’s dry conditions might affect sugar content in the sap. So far, that doesn’t seem to be the case.

And while it’s still too early to call the season one way or the other, there’s a sense of cautious optimism out there. As long as we don’t get a long stretch of unseasonably warm weather, there’s still plenty of opportunity for good runs.

If you grew up around sugaring, you probably have your own version of how it was done.

For me, it was buckets, a tractor, and a whole lot of lifting. You’d go tree to tree, dump the sap, haul it back, and repeat until your arms reminded you exactly how much sap weighs. And for the record—it’s heavy.

These days, a lot of larger operations use tubing and vacuum systems, which allow them to collect sap more efficiently and at a larger scale. In fact, Vermont now produces over half of all the maple syrup in the United States, and production has grown dramatically over the past few decades.

But whether you’re running thousands of taps or just a handful in your backyard, the heart of sugaring hasn’t changed. It’s still about paying attention. Showing up. And working with what nature gives you.

Even if you’ve never tapped a tree, sugaring season is still part of life around here.

It’s the steam rising from sugarhouses on a cold morning. It’s the smell of boiling sap drifting through the woods. It’s the quiet understanding that spring is getting closer—even if it doesn’t quite feel like it yet.

And if you’ve never tried it, even tapping a couple trees with your family can give you a whole new appreciation for what goes into that bottle on your table.

Because it’s not quick. It’s not easy. And it’s definitely not predictable.

Talking with Mark, one thing stood out more than anything else. You have to be an optimist to be a sugarmaker.

Every season brings its own challenges. Every year is a little different. And no matter how much experience you have, you’re still at the mercy of the weather. But that’s part of what makes it special.

So whether you’re out there collecting sap, boiling late into the night, or just enjoying a stack of pancakes with the finished product, this season is a reminder of something simple. Around here, we don’t just wait for spring.

We tap into it.

And if you’re not out there in the woods yourself, this is the perfect time to go find the folks who are. Take a drive. Follow the steam. Stop in at a sugarhouse if you see one open, or plan a visit during Vermont Maple Open House Weekend. You can also find local producers through the Vermont Maple Sugar Makers' Association at vermontmaple.org or the New Hampshire Maple Producers Association at nhmapleproducers.com.

And when you do—buy a bottle. Maybe two. Because behind every jug of syrup is a season like this one: unpredictable, a little stubborn, and made better by the people willing to stick with it.

That’s what you’re really bringing home.

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